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Max Wernerson (37) is an Aurora Guide in Tromsø in northern Norway. In addition to route planning and tending to visitors, his daily work encompasses one main goal: finding the northern lights.
Working 340 kilometres north of the Artic Circle often is adventurous. Max Wernerson says: “Just a couple of days ago, we got stuck near the Finnish border with winds of 100 kilometres per hour. The snowbanks piled up faster than we managed to shovel them away.”
Born in the German state of Saxony, Max Wernerson has worked as an Aurora Guide for a travel agency based in Tromsø for seven years.
Being paid to see the breathtaking northern lights almost every night is pure luxury.
Max Wernerson, Aurora Guide and photographer
After completing his studies in geology at TU Bergakademie Freiberg in Germany, Max Wernerson set out on an extended trip around the world. During this time, he started working as a travel guide, first for fun, and then he recognised his talent. His background in geology puts him at an advantage: He has expert knowledge of the natural phenomena he shows during his tours, and he knows how to explain complex scientific facts in an understandable manner.
In 2018, he moved to Tromsø and took up his first job as a guide, accompanying land tours for cruise ship passengers. A friend who recently had opened a travel agency then offered him a position as an Aurora Guide. Max Wernerson accepted and has been living in Norway ever since. The red tape his move entailed was kept within reasonable limits: Because Norway is part of the European Economic Area, citizens of the EU do not need special work permits, have health insurance automatically, and even maintain their pension rights in Germany. Norway is subject to European law, which coordinates diverse countries’ social security systems.
Work begins late in the day for Aurora Guides. At around 4:00 in the afternoon, Max Wernerson starts prepping for the evening’s tour. His first task is to check weather reports, satellite images, and sun activity. All this is necessary to allow him to plan the route with the best chances of seeing the northern lights because this is why people book him – to catch a glimpse of the lights dancing in the sky.
Typically, Tromsø is a very good place for sighting the lights. From late August to late April, they are visible above the town almost daily, but a blanket of clouds could pose a problem. In bad weather, you could be standing directly under the Aurora without knowing it. Enter Max Wernerson: With all the required information at hand, he makes his way to the meeting point in the city centre where the tour starts at around 5:30 p.m. Groups tend to be rather small, only 8 to 15 participants plus a driver and the guide, who focuses his attention on locating the coveted lights.
While some nights he finds them right away, sometimes the search takes longer. The bus makes repeated stops to allow Max Wernerson to look up at the sky. A camera can help see weaker lights that are invisible to the naked eye. Once a good spot has been pinpointed, the participants set up camp and build a fire, and everybody receives a thermal suit. Then, it is time to watch the northern lights. Max Wernerson’s role includes that of photographer - he also took the pictures that accompany this article - and technical consultant for guests who wish to take pictures of the Aurora themselves.
Every tour ends at Tromsø’s city centre between 11:00 p.m. and 2:30 a.m., depending on the weather. However, Max Wernerson’s job is not done yet. He edits the pictures taken throughout the evening and sends them to his guests. His workday typically is over at around 3:00 in the morning.
Of course, these tours don’t come without challenges, for example, poor weather conditions or demanding guests. In Max Wernerson’s opinion, “For tour guides, knowing how to work with people and being professional is important.”
Despite the obstacles, Max Wernerson is highly satisfied with his profession and intends to continue working as a guide. He enjoys the variation, the adventure, and never knowing how a tour ends. In addition, “being paid to see the breathtaking northern lights almost every night is pure luxury.”
Stand: 10.03.2025
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